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Frequently Asked Questions |
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Q. How long has spray foam been around? |
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A. Spray foam has been around since the 1960's. It
was used in military applications (insulation on
submarines, etc.) It has been used in residential
applications for the past 20 years and has redefined
what insulation should be. |
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Q. Can I apply foam myself? |
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A. Our spray foam insulation begins as large drums of an
"A" and "B" solutions that are mixed at a high
temperature and extremely high pressure to form the
substance known as "polyurethane spray foam insulation"
(see photos of our equipment). The foam comes out of the
specialized application gun at roughly 200 degrees. Our
technicians wear protective clothing and respirators to
avoid contact with solution or vapors.This process
should only be attempted by skilled, highly trained
technicians.. |
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Q. What are the (2) types of spray foam? |
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A. Closed-Cell Spray Polyurethane Foam (SPF)
is a much more dense, hard and rigid foam with an
R-value of 6.8 per inch. It is often used in attics
with metal roofs, attic floors, exterior walls,
crawl space sub-floors and metal sheds. As with all
foams, the airtight barrier that is created is what
prevents dust, pollen, mold and mildew from
penetrating the envelope. The tiny cells in this
type of foam are literally "closed off" making it
impervious to air and water. Once applied this foam
expands to 20 times it's liquid volume. It's
performance is superior to commonly used fiberglass
insulation because of it's ability to adhere to
nearly any building material and it's ability to
provide a continuos barrier against air and moisture
infiltration. The results of using closed-cell SPF
are a cleaner environment, greater noise reduction,
and substantial energy savings. Additionally,
Closed-cell foam has been shown to increase building
strength and wind resistance up to 300%. |
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Open-Cell Spray Polyurethane Foam (SPF) is an
extremely lightweight soft foam with an R-value of 3.8
per inch. It is often used in attic roof-lines, exterior
walls and basement ceilings. It can also be used as a
sound barrier for theater rooms, bathroom and plumbing
pipes. In attics, open cell is highly recommended for
it's performance due to the thickness, air sealing and
insulating properties of the foam. At an average of 5.5
inches (R-value of 21), open cell foam applied to the
underside of the roof decking will eliminate radiant
heat from affecting the indoor temperature and HVAC unit
performance. Basically, it keeps conditioned air inside
the home/business while preventing un-conditioned air
from entering the structure. On average your attic
temperature should not see more than a 10-13 degree
difference from the living space below it. |
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Q. Which type of spray foam is best for my home? |
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A. The best foam to use should be determined by the
application. |
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Crawlspace (ceiling and walls of crawlspace)
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Basement (unfinished walls and ceiling)
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Garages (ceiling of garage…when there is living
space above)
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Walls (exterior walls)
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Metal Roofs (underside of roof decking)
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Uses for Open-Cell Foam |
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Any non-metal Roof (underside of roof decking
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Soundproofing (interior walls, between floors)
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Walls (exterior walls)
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Q. How does spray foam insulation improve indoor air
quality and comfort? |
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A. Spray foam insulation provides a sealed thermal
envelope. When applied, the insulation conforms and
fills each cavity, crack and void. This seals the
home against wind, dust, moisture, pollen, mold
spores, insects, and numerous allergens. Foam
provides a healthier, quieter, draft-free, indoor
environment. |
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Q. Are termites, insects or rodent attracted to spray
foam? |
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A. No, there is no food value to the foam. In addition,
by sealing off roof vents, gable walls/fans and all
entry points, we eliminate the typical paths that these
pests take into the home. |
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Q. How long does the spray foam insulation last? |
A. Once applied and cured, the spray foam insulation is
in place for the life of the structure. It should never
have to be replaced. |
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Q. How long does it take to apply spray foam in my
home? |
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A. The square footage of the application area(s) is the
determining factor. Generally we can complete most
resdiential applications within a day. Complete
encapsulation (attic, crawl space, walls) projects will
most likely take a few days. Our number one focus is to
ensure quality of application vs. how quickly we can
apply it. |
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Q. Do I need Attic and Roof Venting? |
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A. No. Attic and roof venting were developed because of
the inferiority of non-foam insulation. In the winter in
northern climates, moisture typically condenses on the
interior side of insulation because the interior wall
temperatures are relatively cold compared to the warmer
air toward the center of the house. The only way to get
the moisture out of the house was the creation of ridge
and soffit venting. Unfortunately, this also results in
the loss of heat. In the summer, venting is typically
used to remove warm air from un-insulated attic spaces,
one of the purposes of which is to protect the underside
of roof shingles from excessive heat. With Spray
Polyurethane Foam there are no such problems. The
temperature of rooms in the winter is uniform
throughout, thus eliminating any chance for condensation
to occur. In the summer, the attic is just slightly
warmer than the rest of the house, thus there is no
potential for roof shingle damage. |
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Q. How can R-21 of Spray Polyurethane Foam outperform
R-30 of fiberglass? |
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A. R-Value is one of the most misused and misunderstood
measurements in the world. The test results are
determined in a 75-degree (F) lab with no wind load and
ideal humidity. In such conditions the two insulation
types are identical with respect to heat transfer.
However, once the insulation is installed in a home in
real world conditions, the heat loss/gain of fiberglass
and cellulose are outrageous since cold and warm air
move freely about them through convection. Spray
Polyurethane Foam is an air barrier AND it is physically
adhered to the wood framing members of a structure thus
minimizing air infiltration. Think of fiberglass as a
screen and Spray Polyurethane Foam as a window.
Coincidentally, most furnace filters are made from
fiberglass. These filters are obviously designed to
allow the free movement of air through them. |
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Q. What about mold? |
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A. For mold to exist and grow moisture, warm
temperatures and a food source must be present.
Polyurethane foam insulation has no nutritional value
and is not considered a food source for mold. The use of
polyurethane eliminates air movement within the wall
cavity and eliminates condensing surfaces and reduces
the potential to accumulate moisture. Other insulations
are less successful at controlling air infiltration and
at providing adequate insulation to eliminate condensing
surfaces, thus increasing the likelihood of having and
environment that is susceptible to mold.Closed cell foam
is approved by FEMA for use in flood regions. |
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Have a question that you dont see answered above??
contact us and we will get an answer for you! |
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